Silk Road 2022

Back to Brissy

Well, this was the trip that we were never sure would actually happen. The idea started way back 3 years ago when we saw an advertisement for a Silk Road tour beginning in China, and decided to book it for March 2020.

Then COVID broke out in China, and they re-routed the tour through Korea. A month later, the world shut down, and the tour was cancelled, though they gave us a voucher.

We couldn’t get out of the country in 2020 or early 2021, but they started advertising a limited number of tours for 2022 and the Silk Road trip was back up with a few tweaks.…

On Our Way Home From The Stans

The boring bit – flying home. 

Just as well Tashkent airport wasn’t busy. Not India type chaos, but no check-in lines and no signs where to go for immigration and security afterwards. They had snaking lines set out, but didn’t use them. Anyway, we worked it out. 

No eating or food options airside, but they didn’t confiscate water. Nor did they worry about number or size of carry on baggage. Just a free for all at the gate. No boarding announcements or orderly boarding.

Bussed out to our big 767, which ended up full even though it was the middle of the night.…

Around Tashkent
Around Tashkent

Around Tashkent

Forgot to tell you that yesterday we came across a well known and well dressed guy whom our guide introduced to us as a TV show host of a Russian fashion and clothing channel. They’re the same the world over. Gay as. 

This morning after a very leisurely start, we walked to some of the close-by sites of modern Tashkent starting with Independence Square, situated next to the President’s palace. There were 100s of police everywhere blocking off every path into the park around the square, and we were repeatedly stopped from entering. Eventually one kind officer radioed somebody to let us in.…

Finally to Tashkent

Today was the opportunity to see the sights of Samarkand that were outside the centre of the city, but first it was a rare opportunity to grab a morning walk before breakfast. Down the lovely walking paths to the Emir Temur statue (there’s one around every corner).

Emir Temur looking suspiciously benign

After breakfast it was off to the paper factory that uses bark from the Mulberry tree to make the paper pulp, and logs powered by a water wheel to provide the mushing.  The last stage of the process was to polish the paper with a smooth granite rock to make it smooth. …

Amazing Samarkand
Amazing Samarkand

Amazing Samarkand

In an unusual, but rather practical custom, police officers in Uzbekistan wear a little cloth badge on their uniform over their heart embroidered with their blood type.

Today was our day to explore the highlights of Samarkand. Back in the day, Samarkand was one of the most important stops on the Silk Road between China and Europe, and it was the place where a number of the various routes from all four directions all intersected. So everybody came through here. The great Emir Temur made his capital here, and for good reason. It was also the capital of Uzbekistan, until the Soviets decided otherwise.…

Shahrizabz
Shahrizabz

Shahrizabz

Back on the 1960s with the cotton industry established, and the area designated to provide cotton to the whole of the Soviet Union, they needed bulk water to grow it. So they created 150 water channels to take water from the Aral Sea in the north west, and then piped it to various areas of the country. Unfortunately the term Aral Sea is a misnomer. It’s actually the Aral lake. 

At 66000 sq kms it was the 4th largest lake in world. By the fall of the Soviet Union some 30 years later there was only 8% of the water left, and it won’t ever recover as the rivers that feed the lake are in Russia, and the water has been diverted for their own use.…

Bukhara
Bukhara

Bukhara

Bukhara is the cotton bowl of Central Asia, and we passed hundreds of small cotton farms in the bus. The plants are around 60cm tall, and not as prolific as in Australia. They are irrigated from above by plastic hosing strung through the tops of the bushes. 

Not sure about the planting, but all picking is done by hand. There would be 50 or so labourers in every field, and it seems that there was a percentage of balls left on the plant. Maybe the hand picking is less efficient, or maybe they have bloomed after the pick. 

In finished paddocks, there were labourers with scythes cutting the plant to a couple of inches (though we saw a couple of tractors), and others gathering the cut bushes.…

Into Uzbekistan
Into Uzbekistan

Into Uzbekistan

Restaurants in central Asia are different to the west. In the west, a restaurant is one big room with lots of tables. In central Asia, a restaurant is a series of rooms off a corridor or central area. Bit like a hotel corridor. Each dinner party has their own room. 

It’s great. It’s quieter and you can hear others talk. For a group like ours, we can have a single conversation, or the tour leader can talk about the next day. A family group can sing Happy Birthday, or a couple can whisper sweet nothings.

Last night there would have been 30 rooms in our restaurant over two floors.…

Green Gorillas
Green Gorillas

Green Gorillas

Are you ready for a huge substitution game? A big coding puzzle?

OK, so:

B is really V

X is really H

H is really N

N (backwards) is really I

3 is really Z

P is really R

C is really S

Y is really U

W is really SH

BI is really Y

Got all of that? Good! Now you can read Cyrillic.

Don’t believe it? Let me prove it to you.

Start with an easy one. What do the Cyrillic words ‘mnhn mapket’ mean?

Mini market. Bet you got that one.

OK, a bit harder.

How about ‘catnh’, and ‘takcn’?…

Mine Is Bigger Than Yours
Mine Is Bigger Than Yours

Mine Is Bigger Than Yours

The day dawned sunny and warm, with not a sign that it had been raining and snowing the day before. 

There is a law in Tajikistan that you have to display the president’s picture for two weeks before and after every public holiday, so that ensures that there are permanent pictures displayed everywhere.  Lots of them. He is basically president for life, as he is the only candidate in every election. 

He has two sons. One is mayor of the city, and the other is head of the parliament. No prizes for guessing who will eventually be next president. 

Tajikistan has the tallest flagpole, the biggest library, the largest palace, and so on.…