Way back in the 1600s and 1700s when Great Britain was locked in a tussle for dominance of the Caribbean sugar and cacao trade with the French, the Dutch and the Latvians (yep, that one surprised me too), Barbados was the main British port and the hub of their trade. It was important to be able to defend it from ships that suddenly appeared. After all there were no satellites and radar to warn you. So, the British established a network of 40 different forts around the island, each with their own fortifications and guns.
Today we explored St Ann’s Garrison, probably the biggest and most preserved. Construction was started in 1705, and up until 1927 was the headquarters of the British West India Regiment, and then several infantry units of the British Army.
We walked past the Main Guard building which has the coat of arms of George III, the Drill Hall which was built into the fort walls in 1790 as the soldier’s barracks, and the Garrison Savannah which was originally the regiment’s parade ground. However, the bored officers used to challenge the wealthy plantation owners to horse races on the savannah, and it became more and more identified with horse racing. Today it’s the home of the Barbados Turf Club, and hosts regular race meetings. Barbados supposedly has one of the largest collections of historically important cannons, and most of them are placed strategically around the race track, no doubt to encourage the horses.
The other significant building in the area is George Washington house. Wasn’t called that in his time, of course, and he only stayed there for two months in 1751 as a 19 year old. However, it was the only time George left colonial America, and the only other country he visited (briefly). Being across the road from the Hilton Hotel, they make a big deal of it, and have turned it into a museum to attract the tourists. It’s also the time when George contracted yellow fever which affected his health throughout his life.
Back on the bus to Oistins. There are three types of public buses in Barbados, and they all charge the same government regulated fare. At the top of the range are the big blue government buses, many of them electric. They are comfortable and air conditioned, but very infrequent, so you are lucky to catch one. Next comes the mini buses, yellow in colour, seat about 20, and are privately operated, generally with a fare collector. They run semi frequently and rely on open windows. They are pretty comfortable if you can be bothered waiting. At the bottom end of the scale are the Hi-Ace minivans that seat about 12, but are usually packed in like sardines. There are thousands of them, all privately owned with a fare collector, and they come past every few seconds, so they are very convenient if you don’t mind the crush and don’t have any luggage. They toot their horns constantly, and yell out the windows at every pedestrian.
Spent the evening packing in anticipation of flying out tomorrow.
Main Guard Building
Drill Hall
St Ann’s Garrison
If your horse doesn’t win ……
George Washington House