Vladivostok

Woke to a lovely view from our window of small ice flows bobbing in the bay. Had an early morning walk and saw a fisherman with a pole through the ice, and a very cold mermaid.

Walked for most of the day around Vladivostok on a self-guided walking tour. Started at the train station, which looks just like its a building straight out of Disneyland. Saw the big Lenin monument opposite, went down past Yul Brynner's family home and saw lots of buildings deemed important.

As with lots of Russia, there's much irony. Vladivostok was a 'free-port' until the revolution, which means that foreigners could trade tax free. It was the last major city to fall to the Bolsheviks, then was supplied by the US in the second world war, but during the cold war was completely cut off from Russians and foreigners as the Pacific Fleet was stationed there. It was only opened up in 1990, and now is the focus of a push to open up Russia to tourists.

Saw the Pacific Navy War Memorial and the famous submarine. Glimpsed what's left of the Pacific Fleet gradually rusting in the harbour, and went up the funicular railway to the lookout on the hill overlooking the city. Spectacular view, but the wind was off the Arctic so you didn't stay long.

An excursion to find a real coffee and some warmth took a while, but eventually we found one. A fascinating place. They don't expect tourists, but our plastic bought groceries by eftpos from our savings account. No shops have external signs, and there are no open doors, so most of the time you have no idea whats inside. Food shops serve food through a hatch in the front window which you knock on. Most shops and businesses have a permanent female attendant who cleans in perpetual slow motion. There's no western fast food chains, but Baskin and Robbins ice cream is everywhere.

Off to catch the train after tea.