Chicken Kiev

After the cracking pace of yesterday, we had a far more relaxed day. Took an early bus to the metro, with a pit-stop at a local market. Then by the metro to the city centre where we headed off in the direction of the Danipro River. Walked up the hill through Kreschaty Park, past the National Theatre with lots of parents taking their kids to an early morning performance of something, and spent some time enjoying the views of the city and the river. Then down the hill to the river port where a coffee worked its wonders. Up the funicular railway to Mikhaylov'sky Golden Domed Monastry and Cathedral where the princes of Kiev are buried (St Michael is the patron saint of Kiev). Unfortunately, a few minutes after we arrived, somebody turned the lights out so we couldn't really enjoy the icons and decorations.

Andrivska Church (St Andrews) is nearly next door, and it was wedding central on a Saturday, with brides queued up at the door waiting for their turn. Got to experience a genuine orthodox wedding, complete with crowns, offerings of bread, and processing three times around the altar. The priest and choir must be on auto-pilot.

Andrivska Church is at the top of Andriivsky Uzviz, an ancient road connecting the city at the top of the hill with the port at the bottom, and is now a market and museum street with artists, sculpters and performers displaying their stuff. We wandered down the winding street looking at the wares, arriving at a large square at the bottom, with a motor bike convention and rock band in full swing.

Had lunch of Chicken Kiev to celebrate our visit (Kristina said she was 'very proud' when we told her it was Ashley's favourite meal), then wandered around the square, the university precinct, and local produce market. Finally ended up by a circuitous route back at Andrivska Church, and retraced our steps back to the apartment to rest and organise ourselves to move on tomorrow.

Kiev is far more contempory than Moscow or St Petersburg. There are mobile coffee vendors everywhere, billboards, modern signage, clean cars. The people are generally helpful, tolerant of visitors, and smile a lot more. Kristina has been a wonderful host, and we have been very lucky.