Riga Old Town

A big sleep in! The room was dark and quiet, and we were really wrecked after the hassles of getting flights and sleeping in airports, so it was very late when we stirred.

Our day to see the Old Town of Riga on foot. Riga used to be a walled city, but there are only a few remnants of the wall left. However, it defined the boundary of what's now called the Old Town. In the morning we wandered around the parks on the edge, seeing the Opera House, Orthodox Cathedral, Town Hall, port, Riga Castle, the barracks and the changing of the guard, the old fort wall and 'Milda' - the freedom monument. Had gyoza for lunch, then explored the centre of the old town in the afternoon - Liva Square, gunpowder tower, parliament complete with media scrum, St Jacob, Dome Cathedral and square, and St Peter's Cathedral.

Finished by spending some time in the 'Museum of Occupation' which details the Soviet invasion and occupation of June 1940, the Nazi invasion and occupation of 1941-1944 which was originally welcomed, then the re-occupation by the Soviets in 1944, and finally its independence in 1991. Nearly a quarter of the country didn't survive, or were deported and never returned. The Russians, Belarussians, Ukrainians and so on who came to fill the gaps have changed the fabric of traditional Latvian culture, and now there are really two halves of Latvia - traditional Latvians who make up 50%, Russians of different varieties that make up 30%, and around 20% from neither. Many of the older Latvians who grew up in the Soviet era and only learned Russian are now caught in an awkward position as the Russian language and culture gradually diminishes.

Back to the hostel for tea, after watching the demolition of a nearby building. I like Riga. It's clean, modern, cosmopolitan, friendly, stable and cheap. It has a small town feel, and you aren't overwhelmed by traffic, but everything is here. There are a number of hostels, and its a popular destination for backpackers. Our hotel is owned by two Australian guys and their Latvian fiancees, and the hostels swarm with Aussies. One of the staff said she liked Australians because they were so 'peaceful'.