The Drake Passage

Not much to report, but what there is to report is really good news. We left the Beagle Passage sometime around midnight, and moved out into the ocean between the tip of South America and the Antarctic called the Drake Passage. It's crunch time on the trip, when it can either be wonderful experience or turn into a nightmare. For us, it was the former, as the sea was as calm as you could reasonably expect.

Came morning, the gentle rocking kept us asleep till 9:15, and we had to scramble for breakfast when they woke us with the announcement for the first morning activity. A full buffet breakfast, or at least what was left of it. I skipped the bird lecture and went for a walk around and around the promenade deck to keep up some exercise. There I was, doing laps in only a shirt. The sun was out, the waves were less than a metre, it was 16 degrees, and we had cut our speed to 10 knots as we were going to get there too early courtesy of the great weather. Yep, and we are in spitting distance of Antarctica.

After morning tea, it was a talk on getting the most out of your camera in the Antarctica, followed by a full buffet lunch (the fish or the veal). The only down side to the whole day was that the afternoon bird watching session was a fizzer, as the don't come out unless there is wind and cold. Otherwise they sunbake. Us? Well, we just had to put up with the hot spa on deck 5 instead.

A bit of a read in the afternoon while the marine biology lecture was on, before the evening meal (ocean trout or rack of lamb, poached pear or mud cake, cheese or fruit platter, red or white wine ....). Conversation over dinner is universally about how lucky we are with the weather. Not quite a mill pond, but it might as well be, and the forecast is similar for tomorrow, when we should start seeing ice and icebergs.

On most tours, and in most groups I often feel that I've been to more places and countries than most, but amongst this boat load I'm a mere novice. The number of couples on 12 month around the world vacations is large and, strangely, being genuine adventurers there is very little of oneupmanship in the conversations. There are relatively few retired couples. The predominant demographic is couples in their 30s doing long trips before settling down, and most people on board seem to be doing one substantial trip each year. As is usual, US and Australia make up the majority of travellers. It would be quiet without us. One female traveller who I was talking to had laid down an ultimatum for her boyfriend who isn't on the cruise - Don't propose before I go, and at least wait till I'm home from the airport. "I know he's going to", she said, "and he know that I'm going to say yes, so what's the hurry."

The crew is similarly well experienced and qualified. Goodness knows how many PhD's and qualifications amongst them. Even one Nobel Peace Prize laureate on the team, who incidentally drives a zodiac.