Belfast's Peace Wall

Took a 'Black Cab' tour of Belfast, along with 2 other girls from Canada who wanted to tag along. It wasn't a long tour, but we saw all of the places in Belfast that you really wouldn't want to go to on your own. Given that there was a sectarian execution in the road we traveled along only two days ago, we thought it a prudent way to see it all. Even the cab driver had his cab attacked a fortnight ago by people who wanted protection money, so even though the level of violence has dwindled dramatically, it's still there.

Started off by going to the loyalist side of the peace fence where we saw lots of murals on the ends of houses. Parked in an area where loyalists had driven out other loyalists who wanted to stop the violence from their homes, then bulldozed them so they couldn't return. Seems a common theme - loyalists have killed lots of loyalists, and the IRA has killed more republicans than loyalists.

Then down Shankill Road to the 'peace fence'. Everybody tells you that the peace fence is anything but. Peace fences are being erected in record numbers, more to segregate the troubles rather than fix them. There are now 42 that divide streets into loyalist and republican sides, and they are high, steel reinforced concrete fences - anything but token. Rocks and missiles are still being thrown over every night. The current idea seems to be to segregate the troublemakers rather than solve the fundamental problem.

Through one of the steel gates in the peace fence to the republican side, and down Falls Road. The gates are shut by remote control at 11pm every night. Saw lots more IRA murals, and the sites of bombings by both sides.

A very sobering tour, and a reminder that for the relative peace and enormous progress, and the friendliness of every Irish person we've met, tensions are very close to the surface and well ingrained into people's behaviours.

Wandered into town for a spot of shopping, bought a newly released iPad, had lunch at the market again, and a final look at several sights - the Titanic docks, the clock tower, the view from the atrium of the Victoria Square shopping centre, and the Ulster Hall. Being such a gorgeous sunny day, we took the afternoon off and sat in the botanical gardens, watching the bumblebees and listening to the birds.